How To Install LYSAGHT KLIP-LOK 700 HI-STRENGTH® Cladding

Please be aware that installation of steel roofs must be carried out by licensed tradespeople in some Australian states.

Preparation

Before starting work, ensure that:

• The supports for your cladding are truly in the same plane.
• The minimum roof slopes conform to our recommendations.
• The overhangs of sheets from the top and bottom supports don't exceed our recommendations.
• The first and last supports and clips should be at least 75mm from each end of the sheet to keep maximum holding power.

Make any necessary adjustments before you start laying sheets, because they will be difficult to rectify later.

Fasteners

Where insulation is to be installed, you may need to increase the length of the screws given below, depending on the density and thickness of the insulation. When the screw is properly tightened:

• into metal: there should be at least three threads protruding past the support you are fixing to, but the Shankguard must not reach that support;
• into timber: the screw must penetrate the timber by the same amount that the recommended screw would do if there were no insulation.

• Use three screws per clip.
• *Longer screws (eg 12-14x30) may be easier to install.

Orient the Sheets Before Lifting

Consider which end of the building is best to start from. For maximum weather-tightness, start laying sheets from the end of the building that will be downwind of the worst-anticipated or prevailing weather (Figure 1).

It is much easier and safer to turn sheets on the ground than up on the roof. Before lifting sheets onto the roof, check that they are the correct way up and the overlapping side is towards the edge of the roof from which the installation will start.

Place bundles of sheets over or near firm supports, not at mid-span of roof members.

Steps for Installation

1. Lay and fix wire mesh to the supports in accordance with the appropriate building requirements (Figure 2).
   
2. Position the first clips on each support by placing onto the support nearest the gutter (Figure 3).
   
3. Fix the first clip on the support so they point in the direction of laying. Ensure the clip is 90 degrees to the edge of the sheet.
4. Align the clips with the spacer using a string line (or the first sheet as a straight edge) to align the clips as you fix a clip to each support working towards the high end of the roof.
5. Drive hex-head screws through the top of the clip, into the support.
6. Work along the edge of the gutter, ensuring it aligns correctly at its ends in relation to the gutter and ridge (or parapet or transverse wall).
7. Place the glass wool insulation between the supports.
   
8. Measure the distance from the gutter end of the sheet to the support.
9. Position the first sheet so that it overhangs the desired amount (usually 50mm) to the gutter. It is important to ensure this first sheet is placed square to adjacent edges (Figure 4.)
   
10. Engage the sheet with clips using vertical foot pressure on all the ribs over each clip (Figure 5).
11. Fix the next row of clips, one to each support with the slots and tabs engaged. Be sure the clip is 90 degrees to the edge of the sheet.
12. As before, place the next sheet over its clips ensuring you also engage the edge of the preceding sheet.
13. Accurately position the sheet so that it overhangs the desired amount into the gutter. It is important that you keep the gutter-end of all sheets in a straight line.
14. Fully engage the two sheets along the overlapping rib. You can do this by walking along the full length of the sheet with one foot in the centre pan of the previous sheet and the other foot applying vertical pressure to the top of the interlocking ribs at regular intervals. It is important that you don't walk in the unsupported pan beside the overlap (Figure 5).
15. Similarly, engage all the clips by applying vertical foot pressure to the top of the other two ribs over each clip.

It is essential that the sheets interlock completely. It is important that your weight is fully on the sheet you are installing.

Check Alignment Occasionally

Occasionally check that the sheets are still parallel with the first sheet by taking two measurements across the width of the fixed sheeting.

At about half way through the job, perform a similar check but take the measurements from the finishing line to aim for the final sheet to be parallel with the end of the roof. If the measurements are not close enough, lay subsequent sheets very slightly out of parallel to gradually correct the error (figure 6). To allow this to happen, flatten the tabs on the base of the subsequent clips - the slot in the clip will allow the clips to be fixed out of standard pitch.

Fix the Last Sheet

If the final space is less than the full width of a sheet, you can cut a sheet along it's length and shorten the clips as appropriate. It is desirable to fix the sheet at one end.

Installing LYSAGHT KLIP-LOK 700 HI-STRENGTH® Walling

The installation procedure for walls is similar to that described for roofs. To prevent LYSAGHT KLIP-LOK 700 HI-STRENGTH® from sliding downward in the fixing clips, you should pierce fix through each sheet under the flashing or capping, along the top of the sheets.

Installing Translucent Sheets with LYSAGHT KLIP-LOK 700 HI-STRENGTH®

Because of its greater thermal expansion, translucent cladding should be fixed using oversized holes and sealing washers recommended by the cladding manufacturer.  When used with concealed fixed claddings, ensure the fasteners do not penetrate the steel cladding. There are translucent products available that easily accommodate this.

Note: Don't exceed the maximum support spacing specified by the translucent cladding manufacturer. Use of the translucent sheeting may result in lower limit state capacities. 

Walking on Roofs

Keep your weight evenly distributed over the soles of both feet to avoid concentrating your weight on either heels or toes. Always wear smooth soft-soled shoes; avoid ribbed soles that pick up and hold small stones, swarf and other objects.

Be careful when moving between supports. Do not walk in the pan immediately adjacent to flashings or translucent sheeting. Walk at least one pan away.

Turn Up/Down Tools

On all roofs of pitch less than 15 degrees, the high end of all sheets must be turned up to stop water from being driven under the flashing and into the building.

Similarly, the pans at the gutter end must be turned down to stop water running back along the underside of the sheets.

Tools are available for both applications.

Notching Tool

A tool is available for on-site notching of transverse flashings and cappings.

Adverse Conditions

If this product is to be used in marine, severe industrial or unusually corrosive environments, Contact Us.

Metal and Timber Compatibility

Lead, copper, free carbon, bare steel and green or some chemically-treated timber are not compatible with this product. Do not allow any contact of the product with those materials, nor discharge of rainwater from them onto the product. Do not allow any contact of the product with those materials, nor discharge of rainwater from them onto the product. Supporting members should be coated to avoid problems with underside condensation. If there are any doubts about the compatibility of other products being used, Contact Us.

Maintenance

Optimum product life will be achieved if all external walls are washed regularly. Areas not cleaned by natural rainfall (such as the tops of walls sheltered by eaves) should be washed down every six months.

Storage and Handling

Keep the product dry and clear of the ground. If stacked or bundled product becomes wet for extended periods, separate it, wipe it with a clean cloth to dry thoroughly.

Handle materials carefully to avoid damage: don't drag materials over rough surfaces or over each other; don't drag tools over material; protect from swarf.

Cutting

For cutting thin metal on site, we recommend a circular saw with a metal-cutting blade because it produces fewer damaging hot metal particles and leaves less resultant burr than does a carborundum disc.

Cut materials over the ground and not over other materials.

Sweep all metallic swarf and other debris from roof areas and gutters at the end of each day and at the completion of the installation. Failure to do so can lead to surface staining where the metal particles rust.

Sealed Joints

For sealed joints, use screws or rivets and neutral-cure silicone sealant, branded as suitable for use with galvanised or ZINCALUME® steel.

End Laps

LYSAGHT KLIP-LOK 700 HI-STRENGTH® cannot be end lapped. Please contact us for advice on use of an expansion joint. (Or use long length sheets from a mobile rollformer).